Wave Modeling

Polytec is using the wave models STWAVE and SWAN to estimate the near shore wave field. The forecast for ocean surface waves is based on methods similar to an atmospheric (weather) forecast, as we use a numerical wave model to predict the wave field at a limited numbers of grid points within a given region. Where the atmospheric forecast model is forced by the large scale weather system, the wave model requires information about the offshore waves, which, similar to the weather forecast, is obtained from a large scale (global) model. Based on offshore wave characteristics such as significant wave height, wave period and propagation direction, as well as the topographic features of the region, the model will calculate the wave field at all grid points using prognostic wave equations.

Pictures and animations

wave

Significant wave height of the Sletta region as estimated with STWAVE.